Japanese Knife Care Guide

A Japanese knife keeps its edge far longer when you look after it properly. This guide covers how to wash, dry, hone, sharpen, oil and store a Japanese kitchen knife, which cutting boards to use, and what to avoid.

Japanese knife care schedule

How to care for a Japanese knife: 7 daily habits

Japanese kitchen knives are usually made from harder steel than Western knives, often around 58–62 HRC. Hard steel takes a very fine edge, but it needs gentler handling. These seven habits cover almost everything.

1. Wash by hand, never in the dishwasher

   Heat, detergent and steam are hard on steel and handles. Rinse the blade with warm water and a soft sponge with a little mild soap. Avoid abrasive pads, which scratch the finish.

2. Dry immediately with a soft cloth

   This is the most important rule. Water left on the blade, especially near the handle, can cause spotting and rust. Wipe the flat of the blade with the edge facing away from your hand, and do not leave the knife to air-dry.

3. Cut on wood or end grain boards

   Glass, stone and ceramic boards dull an edge quickly, and bamboo is hard on it too. Use a wooden board, ideally an end grain board, where the knife slides between the wood fibres instead of cutting across them.

4. Hone lightly before cooking

   Honing realigns a slightly rolled edge and is quicker than sharpening. Use a fine ceramic rod or the fine side of your whetstone. Avoid coarse steel honing rods on hard Japanese steel, which can chip the edge.

5. Sharpen on a whetstone when the knife starts to struggle

   Sharpen when the knife no longer slices a ripe tomato cleanly. Home cooks usually need this every few weeks to a few months, depending on how often they cook. See the whetstone steps below.

6. Oil the blade before long storage

   A thin film of camellia (tsubaki) oil or food-safe mineral oil, wiped on with a soft cloth, protects the steel from moisture. It matters most for carbon steel and is a good habit for any blade you will not use for a while.

7. Store the edge protected

   Do not keep knives loose in a drawer, where the edge can chip against other metal. Use a wooden saya, a magnetic strip with a wood face, or a knife block. On a magnetic strip, place the spine on first and do not drag the edge across it.

How to sharpen a Japanese knife on a whetstone

A combination whetstone with a coarse side (about 1000 grit) and a fine side (3000–6000 grit) is enough for most home kitchens. Browse our sharpening tools for whetstones and guides.

1. Prepare the stone

   Soak the stone for about 10 minutes unless its instructions say it is splash-and-go. Set it on a damp cloth or a stand so it cannot slide.

2. Find the angle

   Around 15 degrees per side is a safe starting point for most Japanese kitchen knives, which is shallower than the roughly 20 degrees typical of Western knives. A common tip is to rest the blade on a stack of two coins under the spine to see the angle. Check your product page if a different angle is recommended.

3. Sharpen on the coarse side

   Use light, even pressure and push the edge across the stone in smooth strokes, keeping the angle steady. Work one side until you feel a thin burr (a tiny wire edge) along the whole edge, then switch sides.

4. Refine on the fine side

   Repeat with lighter pressure on the 3000–6000 grit side to polish the edge. A leather strop is optional.

5. Rinse, dry and test

   Rinse off the slurry, dry the blade completely and test on a tomato or a sheet of paper.

What to avoid with a Japanese knife

• The dishwasher. Heat, detergent and steam damage the blade and handle.
• Frozen food, bones and hard cheese rind. Hard steel can chip.
• Glass, stone or ceramic cutting surfaces.
• Leaving the blade wet on the counter or in the sink.
• Twisting the blade sideways to pry, scoop or crush garlic.
• Storing the knife loose in a drawer with other metal tools.
• Sharpening at a much steeper angle than the knife was made for, which thickens the edge and takes away the slicing feel.

How to remove rust from a Japanese knife

Light surface rust usually comes off. Make a paste of baking soda and water, rub it gently along the rusty area with a soft cloth or a wine cork, then rinse, dry and oil the blade. A fine rust eraser also works. Avoid steel wool on a polished or patterned blade, and stop if the spot is deep, because pitting that has already formed cannot be rubbed out safely.

Caring for Damascus-pattern knives

Damascus-pattern knives need the same care as any good kitchen knife: wash by hand, dry straight away and store the edge protected. The pattern comes from layered steel, so avoid abrasive pads that can dull the finish. Check the steel type on your product page. Carbon steel needs the most careful drying and oiling. See our Gyuto, Santoku and Nakiri knives, or the full range of knife sets.

Best cutting boards for Japanese knives

Choose a wooden board. End grain boards are the gentlest on a fine edge because the fibres face upward and the blade slides between them. Acacia, walnut, teak and ash are all common choices. Oil wooden boards monthly, wash them by hand and dry them upright. See our end grain boards, all cutting boards and cutting board care.

Care essentials

Japanese knife care FAQ

Can I put a Japanese knife in the dishwasher?

No. Heat, detergent and steam can damage the blade and handle, and knocking against other items can chip the edge. Wash by hand and dry straight away.

How often should I sharpen a Japanese knife?

It depends on how much you cook. Most home cooks sharpen every few weeks to every few months, and hone lightly in between. Sharpen when the knife no longer slices a ripe tomato cleanly.

What is the difference between honing and sharpening?

Honing realigns a slightly rolled edge without removing much metal. Sharpening grinds away a thin layer of steel to create a new edge. Hone often and sharpen only when honing no longer restores the cut.

What angle should I sharpen a Japanese knife at?

Around 15 degrees per side is a safe starting point for most Japanese kitchen knives, which is shallower than the roughly 20 degrees typical of Western knives. Check your product page if a different angle is recommended.

What is the best cutting board for a Japanese knife?

A wooden board, ideally end grain, is gentlest on a fine edge. Avoid glass, stone and ceramic boards, and be careful with bamboo, which is hard on edges.

How do I stop a Japanese knife from rusting?

Dry it immediately after washing, never leave it wet, store it somewhere dry, and wipe the blade with a thin film of camellia or mineral oil before long storage. Carbon steel needs the most attention.

Do Damascus knives need special care?

They need the same care as any good kitchen knife: hand wash, dry straight away, store the edge protected and avoid abrasive pads that can dull the finish.